Bofinger (bow-fahn-zhay) near the Place de la Bastille in Paris is one of the few remaining 19th century Brasseries. The decor is authentic, down to the scratches in the wood trim, the massive mirrors, even the ancient half-wall urinals with elaborate porcelain details. We made a reservation for Friday evening, but were told that there were no tables left on the main level beneath the beautiful stained glass ceiling. Upon arrival, the maitre d'hotel could not find our reservation on his list. Remaining calm paid off: he seated us near the center of the sought-after dining room.
The escargots (snails) were perfectly prepared with just enough garlic butter to clog an artery. Thinly sliced artichoke, offered in the style of "carpaccio", was an exceptional starter in flavor and artistic display. Being allergic to red wine posed a problem when ordering our main course because both of us ordered beef (Entrcote and Chateaubriand) and the tuxedoed waiter expected us to order a traditionally compatible wine. Our exchange (in French) went something like this:
"We would like a half bottle of the Sancerre from the Loire, and a half bottle of the Reisling from the Alsace".
He paused, and through a politely crumpled face he observed, "But you have ordered two white wines." His point was clear: how could one possibly consider eating beef and drinking white wine during the same meal.
"We have allergies", I explained. Without hesitation he suggested an alternate approach and even offered us un gout (a taste) just in case we might change our minds. I politely declined and he fetched the two half bottles and put them on ice in a bucket between the narrowly spaced tables.
The beef was delicious, grilled to perfection and accompanied by green beans, frites and tomatoes. Yes, two orders of creme brulee confirmed that Bonfinger retains the top rating of 10 for that amazing dessert. Whether it was serendipity or lack of maintenance, we both enjoyed noticing that the clock in the dining room displayed 7:05 on its unmoving hands, as if time has truly stopped in this unique and special place. Indeed, Bonfinger is timeless.
We will continue to enjoy Paris by following our stomachs and intuition.
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