Papal Time in Avignon

The audio guides are a brilliant invention because they give the tourist a quick summary of why something is historically significant. Touring the Palace of the Popes in Avignon, France, one is reminded of the turmoil of the 14th century in Europe. The Pope fled Rome and set up camp in Avignon, ordering a new palace/fortress to be built of course. So in 1309, work began on the complex above and continued for 30 years or so. Politics were such that 9 Popes in succession lived here before returning the Holy See to Rome. I think the duration of 9 Popes' reign is a long time, even in Papal time.

The many rooms open to the public include the various vaults and treasuries where valuables were stored, the "Jesus" room, the Pope's apartments, vast dining halls, the kitchen and an unremarkable chapel. Wherever a window is located one can see the thickness of the walls. In some cases, I estimated this to be over 10 feet of solid limestone. No wonder this structure has survived 6 centuries and counting. The audio guide provided interesting observations about the lavish feasts which occurred here. The Pope and his trusted "carver" had the only knives in the room for fear of assassination. Even the King of France, when he deigned to visit, sat at a table below the Pope. Oddly, superstition reigned in terms of detecting treasonous plans: a probe made of whale bone and precious ivory was believed to have the ability to detect poisons in the food.

The bridge at Avignon (le pont d'Avignon) is famous for many reasons, not the least of which is the children's rhyme "Sur le pont d'Avignon, on y danse, on y danse, sur le pont d'Avignon, on y danse tous en ronde" which translates to "On the bridge at Avignon, we all dance there, we all dance there, on the bridge at Avignon, we all dance there all in a circle." Any French citizen today of a certain generation can sing this song, just as Americans can sing "Ring around the rosie".

The bridge was created as a result of a conversation God had with a certain Monsieur Benezek. He claimed that God told him to build a bridge across the Rhone river, everyone laughed, and the church leaders said that if it was true then he should be able to lift a massive boulder as a proof of God's sponsorship. The story of Benezek's sainthood declares that he, indeed, lifted the boulder and threw it into the river as the first foundation of the original bridge (which fell down in the 17th century). Again, superstition reigned in this society regarding floods and the dangers of crossing a bridge. Men of letters of the day wrote that "...one cannot cross the bridge at Avignon without meeting 2 monks, 2 mules and 2 whores."

We enjoyed a Galette for lunch which is a savory crepe with contents of your choosing. I had spinach and goat cheese while Dennis enjoyed ham, tomatoes, mushrooms and goat cheese. The Galette is very filling and healthy at the same time. Yet another recipe to work on at home.